Friday 19 March 2021

Fuel Tank Sender

Looks like the sender on the fuel tank got damaged when the fuel tank was removed during the rear cross member replacement work. This will need to be replaced.

Rear Suspension

The rear shock absorbers were taken off during the chassis work at Buzzweld. Looking at them it is clear that they have seen better days. As such looking to replace them as well as the bump stops.

In trying to identify which part number for the order, needed to determine if the rear suspension is self levelling. This was something new to me. 

Took a look at the "under carriage" and it seems we do indeed have self levelling rear suspension. That was news to me.

Move to Blog

Decided to transition to providing updates via the blog rather than waiting to write up specific articles. Feels easier to document as work progresses.

Given lockdown and we're not going anywhere, seemed like a good time to do a major project. Figured we'd replace the rear cross member and deal with the gear change issues - getting into 1st gear can be problematic and transition from 1st to 2nd requires care otherwise a significant jolt occurs.

To make the project even more involved, we're approaching this by removing the engine, gearbox and transfer box. Then sending Sluggie off to Buzzweld in Yate to fit a new rear cross member who will then clean and protect the chassis.

19th February

Making progress with Christopher's help. Coolant and oil dropped. Front grill, intercooler and radiator out along with all the associated plumbing. Mercifully given it's a 300 Tdi, only 2 electrical connectors to undo as well as starter motor leads. Only have fuel and steering pump feeds to remove and then ready to shackle up. Need to put some more thought into how to organise jacks and cradles as engine and gearbox mountings to support each other.

Just arrived. Perfect timing - exhaust coming off today.


Throttle cable disconnected and steering pump feeds removed. Dropped the transfer box oil. Handbrake cable disconnected. Removed all sections of the exhaust. Required some angle grinding. All the rubbers off too. Removing the exhaust took way longer than anticipated. Both gear sticks and gaiters removed. Started to removed the prop shafts. Bolts are being stubborn. Might angle grind them and replace with new bolts when fitting. Also contemplating using the hoist to reach through the tunnel from inside the cab (with engine jacked) and lowed onto a wooden cradle. Then move hoist round to remove engine. Anyway, enough for one day. Have got a clutch alignment tool (special LR part) on order. Hopefully get more play time tomorrow.

20th February

More progress today. Bonnet off, dropped the main gearbox oil, empty coolant out of engine block, inlet and exhaust manifolds off, turbo off, clutch slave cylinder removed (looks like the rod may have an issue), all the front framing that holds the rads off (much harder than it should have been), bonnet release mechanism removed, starter motor off, all the earthing straps off the transfer box, and reverse/diff lock connector removed. Been round all the bolts necessary to remove the cross member below the gearbox, bell housing and engine/gearbox mounts. Just seeing if they can be freed up. Have had to order some deeper sockets to get to some of the bolts. Also ordered a prop shaft removal tool. Special profile to get past the UJ and to the bolts. Going to bight the bullet and order an impact driver to go with it. Also had to order some imperial sockets and a second set of imperial spanners. At the moment the Landy is about 2 foot off the deck all round (4 axle stands) and trying to figure out how to best remove gearbox and engine. Main problem is the amount of space beneath the chassis to extract the gearbox once dropped. Suspect may have to lower using the engine hoist from within the cab. Having the gearbox on top of the trolley jack is going to be way too high to get under chassis. Will do some more thinking over night. In any case, lots of learning.

21st February

Managed to grab a few hours this afternoon. Removed the alternator feed cable, coolant tank, gearbox tunnel, gear/transfer box selector mechanisms (reduces height of gearbox by a few inches) and complete handbrake mechanism. Deep socket set arrived today so feel confident that should be able to now remove gearbox cross member. Only need to remove to bolts (already slackened) and engine should be free to pull out. Think got a plan of attack now. Prop up gearbox. Push Landy back enough to hoist engine out the front. Put engine onto engine stand. Then move hoist in through passenger front door. Strap up gearbox and transfer box. Remove the gearbox cross member (probably need to jack the chassis apart a little) and then lower gearbox onto either legs of the hoist or a piece of plywood with some rope attached to drag out. Might need to jack up Landy to get gearbox out from under the chassis rails. Looking forward to impact wrench as that will help remove last items being the prop shafts. 




22nd February

More toys arrived. Slings for lifting the gearbox and transfer box.


23rd February

My Dad, who has been helping me from the wings on this project, was super kind enough to buy me an impact wrench!!!!

Propshaft removal tool just arrived. Hopefully get time later this evening to play!

25th February

Impact wrench took all bolts off props first go in under 5 seconds each - outstanding piece of kit!!!! About to pull engine. 






Time for a brew and then drop gearbox! Yeah!



The eagle had landed! Dropped down on to improvised cradle across the legs of the crane - lashed to it also - nicely balanced. Allowed me to push Landy and hoist bit by bit to nudge back into garage. Calling it for the evening. Will jack Landy up a couple of feet tomorrow and then slide out. Shower and dinner time. BTW - all of this would have been impossible without impact wrench. So many bolts needed it.

Will get engine onto stand too. Could not do today as needed a puller for the flywheel. More toys.

26th February

Just managed to extract gearbox. Took a lot of fiddling and Landy around a 2.5 foot lift!


Yippee.

27th February

Started stripping more out of the engine bay. Bolts holding the steering pipe mount across the front cross member span. Ground the heads off and punched through. Just need to fish them out with a magnet.


Oh yes...Camera with a magnet - easy peasy with the correct tools.

3rd March

Landy gone off for chassis treatment and new rear cross member. Hopefully a couple of weeks work. Time to crack on with the engine and gearbox.



Buzzweld in Yate - 30 mins from house.

Decided to book the gearbox in for a rebuild with Ashcrofts.

4th March

Clutch alignment tool and guide pins for pulling txfr box off from gearbox.
 


Time for the gearbox split.





All separated - just a few ancillaries to remove. Guide pins worked well. Flywheel and getting engine on stand tomorrow.

7th March

Got on with a few more bits today. Removed the dowels from the gearbox - good trick learned using the back of a drill bit and mole grips. Gearbox now ready for refurb. Starting to work on the engine. Can't get the flywheel off at the moment. Need a tool to lock the crankshaft in place and can then have at it with big bar. Even with impact wrench the bolts are on too tight!! Started stripping bits off, oil pump, fuel pump, fuel lines, glow plugs, etc... Head is pretty much ready for removing once got engine onto its stand. Back in the warmth now to add to the list of bits need to order.



8th March

No more play today. Just mulling things over. Not sure I can resist the temptation to send of the transfer box for a rebuild too at same time as the gearbox. It'd be frustrating to have play in txfr box input gear that resulted in mitigating the good work done on the main gearbox. Also keen not to have to remove any on them for some good time ahead. The issues I have at the moment are engaging 1st and 1st to 2nd can be tricky. Also, there is a fair amount of play in the system that can results in the need for 1st to 2nd to be well handled, i.e. match revs and being gentle on the clutch. In reality, some of this play maybe in the diff/axles. However, if it turned out to be the txfr box after dealing with diffs/axles, it'd be annoying to have to pull the box again. If doing the txfr box, probably go for the cross drilled input gear as this provides more lubrication.

9th March


Hopefully this will help. Waiting for viscous fan spanners.

12th March

Did not do much today. Took transmission brake drum off after marking it out. Come to conclusion going to upgrade my garage lighting - find myself constantly moving a site light around. Anyway, will prepare gearboxes for pallet pickup on Monday.






Spent a couple of hours with Christopher building boxes and packing up.




17th March

Just "picked" up the Landy from the garage. You can see the new rear cross member. It's a heavy duty cross member, galvanised and then painted black. Got soooooo much work to put things back together. Fuel tank, rear tow pack, shocks (will get new ones), central cross member, mud guards (likely to renew the brackets) , etc... And that's before even looking at the engine. In any case, glad the Landy is back safely.


The fuel tanks has been shot blasted, all the seams protected, painted and the protective coatings.