Rear Door Lock

The rear door lock was not really working well from the outside. Also, keen to change the barrel lock to one of a set of four. In this way, planning to have all doors and fuel filler cap having the same key.

First step was to remove all the trim by following the instructions directly from the workshop bible. The wiper motor cover trim had a huge gash down it and this will be replaced on the refit. Most of the removal was straight forward enough. However, the stud clips for the main trim panel were tricky. Found the best method was to place plastic shims behind the trim either side of the stub. Then by a process of adding further shims the stud eventually pops. The trim is quite delicate and needed to be handled carefully. No doubt a trim removal tools could make this easier. These are currently on order as the method described above will not work for the interior head lining. 

Was really pleased to find buried behind the rear door trim the original Land Rover order sheet that describes the build. All the serial numbers, paint codes, etc... listed. This confirms that the colour is indeed code "574" - Niagara Metallic. The trim is also code "T"

Here's an image of the lock once removed. You can see the door lock seal.

Removed this delicately with a knife blade. Thankfully it came off in one piece without ripping.

However, given that it is so fragile and is an important seal for the rear door, a new part will be fitted on the refit of the door lock.

Here's an image of the rear of the door lock.

Removing the lock barrel was straightforward by simply rotating the barrel with the key in the lock and depressing the spring loaded latch with a tiny bladed screwdriver. Then spent a good few hours with some WD40, tooth brush, scrubbing brush and finally with the air compressor to clean it up. Really pleased with the outcome. Now it's all cleaned up and lubricated, the lock action is smooth. This is good news as genuine replacement parts are really expensive and keen to keep as many of the original working parts as possible. There is a date code of May 1997 stamped on the lock.

Finished cleaning up the rear dook lock mechanism and fitted a new lock barrel. The key for this barrel being common to the fuel cap filler lock and eventually the side doors too.

Ordered a new seal and a couple of replacement plates. Cleaned up the existing bolts, washers and nuts. 

Anna pointed out that the bolts have different lengths depending upon which hole on the rear lock mechanism they are to be located in.

Note once fitted this will result in the half moon cuts being at the top which is different to that pictured in the workshop manual. Recall that the half moon cuts were on the top when originally removed.

When refitting the plastic protection grommet in the door, the tabs fatigued and snapped. So had to replaced them with a new part. Ordered replacement part EKC000030PMA. However, once arrived, the diameter was too large for the hole. So ordered part CWN100020L which is actually a rubber grommet. Much happier with this since it will not fatigue in the same way and will form a better seal.

Retainer plates added (with silicone sealant applied), gasket and all nuts/bolts copper greased.

Lithium grease was applied to both the lock mechanism and door latch prior to fitting. Graphite lubricant added to the key lock. Job done. 

Once the Waxoyl for the door has been applied, will refit the door card.